ريح (Rih) ; Wind

Adriatic Coast

The winds of grace are always blowing, but you have to raise the sail.

Ramakrishna

one last family breakfast, and heartfelt goodbyes stalled by a battery in need of a jump. Fog all around as I drive away in a daze.

GERMANY

one last family breakfast, and heartfelt goodbyes stalled by a battery in need of a jump. Fog all around as I drive away in a daze.

AUSTRIA

drove until I couldn’t anymore, & found a field to fall into. First trial of camping alone made possible from exhaustion, rather than courage. Morning light revealed the distant white peaks of Austrian mountains, & neon roadside breakfast. I call a friend and book an Airbnb for that night.

SLOVENIA

rumor has it that car registration can be done without a residence card. This ends up being false, but my hopes are not crushed yet; more countries lie ahead. The Slovenian countryside charms me completely, with its fairytale villages and delicate brushtrokes of quiet. On my way out I get stopped and searched by an unmarked police vehicle, surprised to find that I was not smuggling people. “You are just you?!” …yes. “Alone??” Yep.

Regardless, I know I will be back some day.


CROSSROADS

I am tired of manual driving! Do I drive down the Italian coast and get on the ferry to Greece, or take the longer, more adventurous route through the Balkans?


CROATIA

long ago I dreamt of the sound washing through these steps. The Zadar Sea Organ makes music from ocean waves, like a siren calling me to my fate across the Balkans. I am

warm again, & finally enjoying the journey.

20 minute BOSNIA – HERZEGOVINA

crossing in the middle of CROATIA: or the world’s silliest arbitrary territory line.


MONTENEGRO

gale force winds pushed me towards the Adriatic sea, where I sat for a while admiring a shape of beauty I had not seen before. First country I see a street dog cross the road, but why did it do so?

ALBANIA

Whereas every other border crossing had my heart soaring, this one left me unmoved. Anxiety over media-driven stereotypes of dodgy Mercedes ruling the road had me feeling meek. Staying in a cold room in the crumbling capital did little to improve my sour preconceptions. Morning brought the joy of leaving, and with it friendly nods from locals in the sunshine.

Over dry crags spotted with goats & their shepherds, beyond the road tolls & a chaotic border-check lies GREECE.

A few certain uncertainties wait for me there, yet they are strong enough to have pulled me across 8 countries in 5 days.

Gratitude to the Omàmìwininìwag (Algonquin) and Anishinabewaki, the original
stewards of the land where I came into being.

Myrah Graham – Copyright © 2023